FABEEL. eels 3 pc.
I show you pictures of the construction phases of one of my eels.
This is the procedure that I adopt me, but everyone knows that the interpretations and there can be many different ways to lead and regulate these baits.
I own several different manufacturers and I am sure I can say that I have no two alike. There are so many small steps that can differentiate two eels, one counts of all is that swimming should be well set to deliver strong vibrations that characterize these baits but at the same time to ensure that the bait lends itself to different rates of recovery without suffering the acceleration (or water flows a mouth).
1: You have tried other woods such as koto and Rummy now realize the aguillette with a rod of lime 12mm, I think is the right compromise between hardness and workability.
2: rod on the raw trace the lines of the three segments that have decreasing lengths (5.4 and 3 cm)
3: With a rasp and a different texture maps (80 and 240) cannot eye ends to make head and tail.
4: divide the three segments and a tie with the paper 80.
5: With a pen trace some guides to make milling and ventral position it that the burglary of the blade 1 cm from the muzzle.
6: with a punch I make a call to guide me in making a hole in the rod.
7: Drill a hole on the entire length of the segment using a sink tip sottile.non never on one side but I make sure that the two holes meet.
8: the three segments drilled
9: multitool with a blade to cut the cut ventral practical.
here is what to me is the utility the hole, cut it with the blade until it reaches the hole above. so I'm sure I do not sink too. Furthermore, the circular section of the forum is an excellent venue for the armor.
10: With the multi-tool has a slightly different point widen the break points which will accommodate the plumbing or the entire first segment and the second a few millimeters behind the ventral ring.
11: to make the armor not I use a template, I'm used to so and so, paradoxically, I can be more quickly and accurately. the armor is 316 stainless steel 1mm.
fixed the armor with a few drops of glue superglue.
as you can see the sections have not yet been smoothed at the joints.
12: Cut two pieces of lead wire that I use for stopping the first two sections as described above.
the thread is a bit 'longer than necessary, then with the help of a cutter rifilerò everything.
I never weighed the lead that I use, I absolutely eye
13: in the first two sections use the seal wire to "fill" the mill, then review the cut and brought to the final width of the blade with a cutter.
now the formula is ready for grouting true that I carry with stucco two-component metal but, as mentioned several times, there are several products that are suitable for this purpose and also a simple one-component wood filler can do the job.
14: When the grout is completely dry with the help of a small wheel bevel the ends of each segment.
now the formula is almost ready for the sealer. the hands of filler will be 2, between one hand and the other is very important to sand the surface.
lime after two coats of sealer has a completely different look.
15: while the two coats of sealer dry I dedicate myself to that realization with lexan blade 2 mm and the classic technique nut / ball. for these eels Using a sphere of 10 mm and a die of appropriate size. I do not have a template for the paddle, the rough and then the realization Sgrosso adapting it to the nose of the bait with the aid of a gauge. realize the recess of the blade by eye and no angle standard. the time that elapses before complete hardening of the epoxy glue I use to fix the blade allows me to make the right settings on tilt.
16: When two coats of sealer will dry the artificial is ready for a quick test in the tank. To do this test uses two anchors and fixed at the moment the stick without glue helping to hold it in place with the thickness of adhesive tape. known if the small anomalies of swimming that I think I speak now not correctable ring head as the paddle is yet to be definitively removed and reattached at the end. essentially I need this test to see if the bait, "he hopes" to swim. with a little 'practice is difficult to understand from this very moment when the artificial when completed will have a swimming satisfactory. The artificial
is now ready for painting and as said many times with an airbrush realizable economic double azione.per some liveries using some templates. Once the glue's livery holographic eyes flat or 3D, for the latter is necessary to conduct a small office during working of crude oil. The artificial
still no shovel is ready for the first coat of epoxy.
17: The remaining two coats of finish will be given after pasting the paddle with two component epoxy adhesive.
I show you pictures of the construction phases of one of my eels.
This is the procedure that I adopt me, but everyone knows that the interpretations and there can be many different ways to lead and regulate these baits.
I own several different manufacturers and I am sure I can say that I have no two alike. There are so many small steps that can differentiate two eels, one counts of all is that swimming should be well set to deliver strong vibrations that characterize these baits but at the same time to ensure that the bait lends itself to different rates of recovery without suffering the acceleration (or water flows a mouth).
1: You have tried other woods such as koto and Rummy now realize the aguillette with a rod of lime 12mm, I think is the right compromise between hardness and workability.
2: rod on the raw trace the lines of the three segments that have decreasing lengths (5.4 and 3 cm)
3: With a rasp and a different texture maps (80 and 240) cannot eye ends to make head and tail.
4: divide the three segments and a tie with the paper 80.
5: With a pen trace some guides to make milling and ventral position it that the burglary of the blade 1 cm from the muzzle.
6: with a punch I make a call to guide me in making a hole in the rod.
7: Drill a hole on the entire length of the segment using a sink tip sottile.non never on one side but I make sure that the two holes meet.
8: the three segments drilled
9: multitool with a blade to cut the cut ventral practical.
here is what to me is the utility the hole, cut it with the blade until it reaches the hole above. so I'm sure I do not sink too. Furthermore, the circular section of the forum is an excellent venue for the armor.
10: With the multi-tool has a slightly different point widen the break points which will accommodate the plumbing or the entire first segment and the second a few millimeters behind the ventral ring.
11: to make the armor not I use a template, I'm used to so and so, paradoxically, I can be more quickly and accurately. the armor is 316 stainless steel 1mm.
fixed the armor with a few drops of glue superglue.
as you can see the sections have not yet been smoothed at the joints.
12: Cut two pieces of lead wire that I use for stopping the first two sections as described above.
the thread is a bit 'longer than necessary, then with the help of a cutter rifilerò everything.
I never weighed the lead that I use, I absolutely eye
13: in the first two sections use the seal wire to "fill" the mill, then review the cut and brought to the final width of the blade with a cutter.
now the formula is ready for grouting true that I carry with stucco two-component metal but, as mentioned several times, there are several products that are suitable for this purpose and also a simple one-component wood filler can do the job.
14: When the grout is completely dry with the help of a small wheel bevel the ends of each segment.
now the formula is almost ready for the sealer. the hands of filler will be 2, between one hand and the other is very important to sand the surface.
lime after two coats of sealer has a completely different look.
15: while the two coats of sealer dry I dedicate myself to that realization with lexan blade 2 mm and the classic technique nut / ball. for these eels Using a sphere of 10 mm and a die of appropriate size. I do not have a template for the paddle, the rough and then the realization Sgrosso adapting it to the nose of the bait with the aid of a gauge. realize the recess of the blade by eye and no angle standard. the time that elapses before complete hardening of the epoxy glue I use to fix the blade allows me to make the right settings on tilt.
16: When two coats of sealer will dry the artificial is ready for a quick test in the tank. To do this test uses two anchors and fixed at the moment the stick without glue helping to hold it in place with the thickness of adhesive tape. known if the small anomalies of swimming that I think I speak now not correctable ring head as the paddle is yet to be definitively removed and reattached at the end. essentially I need this test to see if the bait, "he hopes" to swim. with a little 'practice is difficult to understand from this very moment when the artificial when completed will have a swimming satisfactory. The artificial
is now ready for painting and as said many times with an airbrush realizable economic double azione.per some liveries using some templates. Once the glue's livery holographic eyes flat or 3D, for the latter is necessary to conduct a small office during working of crude oil. The artificial
still no shovel is ready for the first coat of epoxy.
17: The remaining two coats of finish will be given after pasting the paddle with two component epoxy adhesive.
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